Reviews

Mutton achari gosht, Clay Handi A Kentucky Fried Chicken closed in Kenmore in 2017 leaving seven KFC outlets in Buffalo. What replaced it was something singular: Buffalo’s only Pakistani restaurant, […]

The cheesesteak at Vinnie’s Minis If you measure the advance of a civilization by the new things it makes possible, frozen pizza is a sign that we are making some […]

Sausage rolls, Sevens Chez Panisse has inspired California cuisine and the farm-to-table movement from its Berkeley base. Moosewood, founded 1972, helped drive a vegetarian cafe revolution coast-to-coast from its Ithaca […]

Lomo sandwich with everything at Tangos 716 Buffalo has a new Best Steak Sandwich. If you don’t believe me, go see Gabriela Ozan and she’ll straighten you out. At Tangos […]

Deep dish with pepperoni, ricotta florettes, and hot honey, at Buffalo Deep Dish The second-most Buffalo thing about Buffalo Deep Dish, the pizzeria at Briar Brothers Brewing, is that it […]

Owno khao swe, Burmese coconut curry chicken noodle soup, Thai Bowl Kitchen (Photo: Mindy Airheart) In 2012, Barack Obama was re-elected president of the United States. Does that seem like […]

Fresh bread arriving at my table, still warm from the hearth, always makes me feel like some lowkey royalty. No matter where I am eating, no matter what else arrives […]

Peanut kare-kare with crispy pork belly, at Lutong Pinoy If you live in Buffalo and love to explore the world’s cuisines, a NEXUS subscription does wonders for your reach. There’s […]

Lasagna, pasta alla norma, chicken sorrentino, clockwise from left, at Cipollina. How many Western New York restaurant chefs do you know of making their own burrata for service? Massaging mozzarella […]

Lamb mandi on rice, Almandi We were dining at Almandi, six blocks west of the Broadway Market, while my friend Faress told his family’s story of how they became American. […]

Conchigle pasta with lamb bolognese, Bistro Avera In February, I got the chance to play art critic at the Buffalo AKG Art Museum. The exhibit “Dine In” explores the ultimate […]

Grilled beef ribs, Hanai Hawaiian BBQ If you’ve never heard of “Hawaiian plate lunch,” the menu at Hānai Hawaiian BBQ might seem somewhat discombobulated. Beef ribs cut thin, marinated in […]

As restaurant concepts go, “farm-to-table” has faded like the “CHEW MAIL POUCH TOBACCO” slogans painted on barns in another century. At its Buffalo-area peak a decade ago, every other new […]

Ethiopian genius on injera at Horn of Africa If it wasn’t for tastespotter Scott Field, who knows how long it would have taken me to discover Horn of Africa. The […]

Boeuf on Weck, Café Bar Moriarty When a friend coming in from out of town tells me they can only meet for lunch, I ask if Wednesday, Thursday, or Friday […]