Reviews

Bandeja paisa, Colombian “farmer’s platter,” at Dulce Hogar Bakery in Amherst When reviewing newly opened restaurants, I take a moment to imagine what previous occupants of my seat witnessed during its prior incarnations. As the server led me to my table at Dulce Hogar Bakery, the new Colombian restaurant at 951 Niagara Falls Blvd., my […]

Taco platter at Taqueria Los Mayas Taqueria Los Mayas has been my favorite Mexican restaurant in the Buffalo area since it opened eight years ago. Then I got the chance to explore Mexican cuisine at the source, eating from Mexico City to Oaxaca. Now Taqueria Los Mayas stands even taller in my eyes. The busy […]

Root Down Farm Walla Walla onion in Butter Block puff pastry, at DiTondo. Ever since Sebastiano DiTondo’s great-granddaughter returned to Buffalo to transform the family’s tavern into a fine dining restaurant, my answer to the question “Where should I go for Italian?” has gotten more complicated. Now I have to ask my own question before […]

Roast chicken and char siu pork over rice, Fu’s BBQ House. In September 2017, when Rockey Ren opened Asia Food Market, he said the huge Asian supermarket would eventually offer a Chinese BBQ counter and bakery, like his original Rochester store. It took eight years, but Fu’s BBQ House and MooMoo Tea are serving customers […]

Shah’s Mixed Platter, at Shah’s Food. Sahar Bakery had been dark for so long I feared the days of buying barbari bread on Sheridan Drive were over. But Afghani baker Mehdi Atta was just visiting his son in California, much to my relief. Sahar Bakery barbari bread, in white and whole wheat. I got his […]

Halloumi fried in brik, honey, Sicilian pistachios, at Mira “Friends and family” nights are how restaurants test kitchen and service crews before showtime, opening to the public. In 15 years of restaurant criticism, I’ve never offered a review based on previews, because restaurant crews usually need time to adjust to real pressure. Mira, the broadly […]

Khao soi chicken at Tiny Thai. To find the best Thai food in Buffalo, enter the three-story food incubator hub at 27 Chandler St., and take the elevator or stairs to the second floor. On your right is a bridge to 37 Chandler St., where Tiny Thai has its kitchen, takeout counter, and two two-person […]

“Don’t fill up on the bread” is a standard warning before sitting down to a table covered with exquisite handmade pastas. At Inizio, the Elmwood Village fresh pasta palace, hot noods in a chill space is the main attraction. But on my last two visits, my guests simply could not stop talking about that bread. […]

Housemade tortillas, moles, and juices, plus three-cheese queso fundido Ceviche at Casa Azul. Mexican favorites made better is Casa Azul’s calling card. Chicken tacos with moist and tender dark meat and crunchy chicken chicharrones on housemade tortilla. Queso fundido made from real quesos with pepitas and honey. Queso fundido at Casa Azul. Every single margarita, […]

Pastries, fried snacks, and sandwiches are all reasons to visit Sueños de Azúcar’s pastry case. (Photo: Adam Bojak) Downtown lunchers desperate for a taste of the tropics got a reason to celebrate in August, when Jamillette Gallego opened Sueños de Azúcar Bakery two blocks from Buffalo City Hall. Walk in and take a tour of […]

Bakery, breakfast, lunch, grab-and-go have blessed Kenmore residents with convenience Lentils, chopped dates, brown rice, toasted almonds, and feta joined spinach arugula under a tahini dressing in a satisfying Mojo Market meal. I don’t know what the Village of Kenmore has done to please the restaurant gods. I just know that mojo is working. World-class […]

With bubbling stews, fresh bread, and a parking lot Crave King in Lackawanna was my first taste of Yemeni cuisine. The first time I dug into a cauldron of Yemeni vegetable stew and fresh bread, I was left wondering why Yemeni restaurants weren’t bigger in Buffalo. During World War I, Yemeni citizens of Buffalo were […]

Joe Powers and crew get No. 14 in world on Neapolitan list Nduja pie at Jay’s. At Jay’s Artisan Pizza, folks waiting for tables and fresh takeout pies are normal, just part of the decor. Standing-room-only is standard for world-class pizzerias like Joe Power’s Kenmore restaurant. On Monday, in Naples, Jay’s was named 14th in […]

Another UB-born restaurant offers essentials like koobideh and ghormeh sabzdi Barberry rice with koobideh, beef-lamb kabobs, at Zereshk. Zereshk opened last month, bringing Persian cuisine to Amherst in the latest example of just how much the University at Buffalo has improved eating opportunities for the entire community. In the Maple Forest Plaza, koobideh beef-and-lamb kebabs, […]

Home of favorite chicken finger sub, Allentown spot survives by listening to customers Cafe 59 has served Allentown so long that it started as an Internet cafe. Leon Rung had just left Ingram Micro with a coffee shop on his mind. That was almost 25 years ago. Allen Street has changed so much since then, […]