Judge my cooking July 13, stash time for Steampunk cider fans, more U-pick days coming
From 1977 to 2004, those afflicted with a Big Mac Attack could find safe harbor in one of Lewiston’s oldest buildings, The Frontier House.
McDonald’s fries and shakes were cooler coming from a building with solid stone walls 30 inches thick, a structure listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Two decades later, cheeseburgers are back on the menu at 460 Center St., but you’ll need a reservation.
The thoroughly refurbished 1824 building has become Fairbanks, a fine American restaurant drawing on Northeast terroir. Operated by Billy Club owners Dan Hagen and Jake Strawser, the restaurant opens to the public this week. As usual, building a restaurant into historic space has taken longer than anyone hoped.
Fairbanks has come a long way.
Executive chef Matt Hirt returned to Western New York from stints at New York City’s Eleven Madison Park, and most recently as chef de cuisine at Nudibranch in Manhattan. He was previously Prescott’s Provisions’ opening sous chef.
Fairbanks’ burger ($20), featuring twin smashburger patties dressed with “Mac sauce,” comes with smashed fried potatoes and a half-sour pickle.
Radish toast, beef tartare with savory beef fat doughnuts, and a quartet of Parker rolls ($8), with optional chicken liver mousse ($5), were appetizer highlights on Saturday’s menu.
Bigger plates included chicken ($32) and Ibérico pork collar ($34) with beans and greens. Sweets of the moment included rhubarb trifle ($14) and basil and berries ($10), offering basil custard, berry sorbet, and meringue shrapnel.
Reservations are open at fairbankslewiston.com.
460 Center St., Lewiston, fairbankslewiston.com, 716-405-7037
Hours: 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. Closed Sunday, Monday.
REVIEW: Tortuga, the Central-American-inspired restaurant that opened at 3189 Delaware Ave., Kenmore in March, is not only the only place in Buffalo with Peruvian food. It’s also built to deliver those flavors in a format that fits your lifestyle. The classic Peruvian lomo saltado, sliced steak stir-fried with french fries and tomatoes, can be yours as a salad, grain bowl, as a wrap, or over fried potato wedges. Plus as a sandwich, sure. Add pelotas, Spanish-style one-bite arancini with hearts of manchego, dipped in smoky-spicy pimenton ketchup, and you are happy under $20. (For patrons, Tuesday.)
SAUCE FOR THE GANDER: In 13 years as a restaurant critic, I’ve published my opinions about 600 restaurants.
In my opinion, most stand up on re-reading. But some make me cringe.
Getting the spotlight to pick apart other human beings’ efforts after a few glimpses may seem like a complete hoot from the outside. Not if you have a heart, and understand how your word choices can help or hurt hardworking people you care about.
Over the years, the mistakes I’ve made have added up to what feels like a karmic debt.
Easy to throw shade from your dining-room perch. How would my cooking do under a spotlight? Sauce for the goose is sauce for the gander, innit?
When Missy Singer DuMars of Crown Hill Farm said she had an open spot in her summer dinner series, the old itch returned. Mike Parkot, owner of Always Something Farm in Darien, said yes.
So on July 13, in Eden, I will get to work on my karmic balance. After decades of cooking and serving dinners scaled for scores of eaters, I welcome one and all to my table.
Plus, the comment cards will be published in an upcoming Four Bites article, quoting the authors.
If that sounds like fun, there are 48 tickets. With tax and fees it’s $126 per person without wine, $159 with pairings from Chateau Niagara Winery. Get your tickets here.
Get good news about great eating FREE every week at Four Bites.
STEAMPUNK CIDER 86d: With Steampunk cider crafter Jonathan Oakes moving on to Arrowhead Spring Vineyards as its winemaker and vineyard manager, any fans of the Lyndonville-born cider should grab what they can get.
That might be the last of it, Oakes said. The Steampunk Festival formerly hosted at his family’s farm has been relocated to the Orleans County Fairgrounds, where the 2025 Steampunk Festival is set for Aug. 29 and 30.
Gather ye Steampunk whilst ye may.
ASK THE CRITIC
Q: Your strawberry picking article made me wonder how many other fruits are offered that way? Does anybody have elderberries?
Gary C., Buffalo
A: Elderberries aren’t ready until August-ish, but if they’re offered via U-pick, that would be news to me. If anyone reading this knows, please drop me a line.
Blueberries, raspberries, peaches, and apples are standard U-pick offerings in Western New York. Erdle Farms U-pick blueberry season starts tomorrow, in fact. (That’s June 30.)
There are probably more, and I would like to learn about them. That said, strawberries continue. Here’s some freshly confirmed strawberry U-pick opportunities in the days ahead.
Greg’s U-Pick Farm Market and CSA
9270 Lapp Road, Clarence Center, gregsupick.com, 716-741-4239
Fields open Tuesday-Saturday 10 a.m.-5 p.m., 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday.
Erdle Farm
12229 Hanford Road, Silver Creek, 716-410-0599
U-pick now closed but reopening early tomorrow, June 30, with blueberries, and a few raspberries. Strawberries in July.
Hours will be 8 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. Watch Erdle Farm Facebook page for announcement.
Thorpes Organic Family Farm
12866 Strykersville Road, East Aurora, thorpesorganicfamilyfarm.com, 716-655-4486
Closed Sunday, but open Monday through Saturday.
More reading from Michael Chelus:
- Andrew gave us some tips on how to get the most out of strawberry picking [Four Bites]
- Christa offered a list of some of the Spree’s favorite casual summer dining spots including Fran Ceil Custard, Mississippi Mudd’s and more [Buffalo Spree]
- Hydraulic Hearth is hosting a single varietal cider tasting and seminar TOMORROW featuring cider maker and founder of Ithaca’s South Hill Cider, Steve Selin and Hydraulic Hearth’s own bar manager and Certified Pommelier, Danny Dispo [Hydraulic Hearth]
- Mr. Galarneau told us how you can take your dinner into your own hands at Woo Chon Korea House [Four Bites]
- Francesca told us the story behind Olcott Lobster Co. and its owner, Michelle Pozantides [Buffalo News]
- Newcomers to this year’s Taste of Buffalo include Caribbean Taste and Roaming Bison BBQ [Buffalo News]
- The Erie County Fair announced the Best in Show for its 2025 Home Brew and Cider competitions [Buffalo Beer League]
- Brian wrote about a new collaboration between Wildflower Meadery and the Buffalo and Erie County Botanical Gardens – Botanical Breeze [Buffalo Beer League]
- Britesmith Brewing has opened its second taproom on Niagara Street [Buffalo Beer League]
- Brian’s Buffalo Beer Buzz gave told us about the rerelease of Packet IPA from Big Ditch, Brickyard Brewing marking its 8th anniversary with a new hazy IPA and more [Buffalo Beer League]
- Visit Buffalo Niagara unveiled its Ultimate Buffalo Food Trail this week [Buffalo News]
- KT Caribbean Cusine will open its first full fledged restaurant – KT Caribbean Café [Buffalo Rising]
- More coverage of the opening of Britesmith Brewing’s second taproom [Buffalo Rising]
- The Rockstar Kitchen Pop-Up is back at this year’s Taste of Buffalo and it features dishes from Mint Kitchen and Bar, Southern Junction and a Buffalo legend – Chef Mike Andrzejewski [Buffalo Spree]
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