Much-anticipated Mira bringing the Mediterranean to Elmwood

Bar, Mira
(Photo: Mira)

Mira, the broadly Mediterranean restaurant opening on Elmwood Avenue next week, is Buffalo’s most-anticipated restaurant in years.

Exhibit 1: Last week, in the first 45 minutes reservations were open, 600 parties booked tables, said chef-owner Manuel Ocasio. Service begins Nov. 6.

Coal oven lamb ribs with boma rice and yogurt, Mira
(Photo: Mira)

Ocasio and pastry chef Gina Nalbone are newlyweds with restaurant skills honed in some of the nation’s top places. They chose to make their move in Buffalo, working for partners Brad Rowell and Caryn Dujanovich at Grange Community Kitchen until 1081 Elmwood Ave. was ready to meet the moment.

Pastry Chef Gina Nalbone and her husband, Chef Manuel Ocasio, in the kitchen of Mira, their first restaurant. (Photo: Mira)

Mira means “look,” and Dujanovich’s transformation of the space into a sun-soaked seaside villa makes it easy to obey. Terracotta walls, wood paneling, and earth tones help create a chill space to focus on the pleasures of the table. Custom banquettes, lowkey lighting and expanses of tile have redefined the former Pano’s.

Dining room, Mira
(Photo: Mira)

“The lighting at night is, like, super beautiful and moody,” Ocasio said. “You step in here and you feel like you’re in a Mediterranean restaurant, with the textures and the warm tones.” 

Warmth starts in the kitchen, home to a Basque grill and a coal oven that can sear at 1,100 degrees F, using Spanish hardwood charcoal. The menu is straightforward Mediterranean classics with artful touches.

Coal-fired oven reaches 1,100 degrees F.

Small plates include sesame focaccia ($9), with arribiata sauce and ricotta, suppli ($13), arancine with hearts of stretchy mozzarella, halloumi baked in pastry ($16), with honey and Sicilian pistachios, and tuna conserva ($18), with marinated onions, aji amarillo, semolina bread.

Lamb ribs ($42) with bomba rice and garlic yogurt, or sea bream ($44) with Calabrian chile breadcrumbs, fennel and arugula salad are among coal oven entrees.

Brisket and lamb sausage ($26) with scarlet runner beans comes off the Basque grill. So do salmon ($26) with pomegranate salad, harissa tzatziki, pistachio, and chicken thigh ($22), with roasted garlic tahini, pepperonata.

Spanish hardwood charcoal fires the oven at Mira.

Pastas include culurgiones ($25), Sardinian-style braided stuffed dumplings with tomato passata, and pansotti ($28), Ligurian ravioli stuffed with squash, in brown butter and burgundy truffle.

Dining room dressed in warm teracotta, Mira. (Photo: Mira)

Nalbone’s desserts include tiramisu ($10) with malted milk mascarpone, chocolate ganache, and espresso, milk and honey panna cotta with grapes and halva, gelato in milk chocolate and toasted vanilla bean, and Concord grape sorbetto.

Make reservations here. At publication time, the next available table is Nov. 12.

Mira, 1081 Elmwood Ave., mirabuffalo.com, 716-783-7000

Hours: 5 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, plus 9 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturday brunch. Closed Sunday, Monday.

Chor muang chicken-peanut dumplings at Tiny Thai.

REVIEW: Tiny Thai is the only Thai restaurant in Buffalo that I know makes its own spice pastes. That’s what sets Kae Baramee’s restaurant apart from the Thai crowd. She’s born-and-raised Thai, and she cooks like it, too. (Thursday, for patrons.)

NIGHT OF SEVEN MOLES: In Mexico, no one goes harder on Day of the Dead than Oaxacans.

In Buffalo, no one goes harder than Maizal Mexican Kitchen, led by Leonel Rosario, a Oaxaca boy.

On Oct 27, you’re invited to join the Day of the Dead celebration and light a candle to honor your departed loves. Rosario will be cooking a once a year feast: Night of the Seven Moles, a rainbow of Mexican culinary genius, straight outta Oaxaca.

Buffalo usually only sees one or two of the complex Mexican simmer sauces, made from chiles, fruits, nuts, chocolate, spices and vegetables. Night of the seven moles is a masterclass: Amarillo and Verde. Coloradito. Manchamanteles. Rojo and chichillo. And negro.

Oaxacans love to dance. They dance for funerals, they dance for weddings. After cooking, Rosario takes off his chef hat and gets loose, turning the dining room into a dance hall with his wife Dolores.

Dinner and a show, for the liveliest Day of the Dead party ever. Night of the Seven Moles, $125 per person, Call Maizal for reservations, 716-428-5683.

Risotto bites, Osteria 166

PEPPER PALOOZA CHAMPS: Hundreds turned out for Pepper Palooza, the stuffed pepper exposition held last Sunday at Wings of Hope in Orchard Park.

In the traditional category, Fatman’s Pizza was proclaimed champion by both popular and judge vote  2712 Niagara Falls Blvd., Tonawanda, fatmanpizzawny.com, 716-693-7477

Osteria 166 got the judges’ nod on freestyle, with its crispy pepper risotto bites, served with vodka-sauce-like creamy tomato dip. Steelbound was the crowd’s champion, for Chef Amy Smith’s version.

Given the response, organizers said, expect Pepper Palooza 2026.

Duck pastrami and salad, Waxlight Bar a Vin

ASK THE CRITIC

Q: The Little Club is closing. It’s our go-to, hands-down favorite date night place and we are crushed, to say the least. Is there any way you can help ease the pain?

  • Dave, via email

A: If you feel the loss of The Little Club, here’s some places that might help.

Waxlight Bar a Vin, for delicious, creative small plates that are unique in a good way. 

Octopus salad, DiTondo

DiTondo, for principled restraint and authentic Italian touches, every ingredient honored. 

Leeks, Inizio

Inizio, for thoughtful small plates that can make pasta an afterthought and bonkers good bread. 

Boeuf on weck, Cafe Bar Moriarty

Cafe Bar Moriarty, whose alliance with French-trained butcher next door makes it the closest thing Buffalo has to a tapas bar – and a contender for the finest beef on weck in all the land. 

Grilled radicchio, Beacon Grille

Beacon Grille, whose passionate small plates are celebrations of their own, before the big platters arrive.

More reading from Michael Chelus:

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