By Kevin Thurston
Editor’s note: Four Bites guest reviews invite other voices to the conversation about what’s good in Buffalo. Starting with chef-writer Kevin Thurston’s take on South Buffalo’s vegan Sevens Cafe and Bakery. Thurston is culinary director of Tipico Coffee.
When I had the harissa mushroom sandwich, I knew I wanted to tell everyone about Sevens, the vegan cafe that hits harder. Its arugula salad had this wonderful note of mint that stopped me in my tracks: someone put some thought into this.
Before trying savory options, I had already eaten my way through the pastry case. There’s always a bun, usually it’s lemon poppyseed, a few cookies, a gluten free option or two as well as a “sausage roll.” All have been good to great vegan eating.
Drawn back to the harissa mushroom sandwich, I found the menu changed for fall. Never fear. There is a hoisin mushroom sandwich built on locally-grown Flat 12 mushrooms. The house hoisin sauce adds a delightful sweet note to the earthy mushrooms while scallions, cucumber, and pickled carrots round out the flavor profile.
While that sandwich was delightful, the Miso Eggplant Sandwich is stuck in my head.
Like all of their sandwiches, it comes on house-baked focaccia, the perfect vehicle for this beauty. Soft bread needs a foil, otherwise it gets boring texturally. Not with tempura eggplant, Japanese slaw, and pickled ginger. Tossed in the miso caramel glaze, the eggplant retains its crunch. The additions of the slaw and ginger are in sharp contrast to the sweetness of the miso, with a toasty hint of sesame oil.
Sevens also offers three bowls: Caesar Crunch, Korean Rice, and a Bills Bowl. As a fan of Korean food, I opted for the Korean Rice Bowl because it has Barrel+Brine kimchi. The tofu was wonderfully prepared and – get this – it was a menu item labelled “spicy” that actually qualifies.
The menu leans Asian, but to the credit of the team at Sevens, each of the dishes only shared a vocabulary of ingredients, but still told its own story. Upon my return, if I can get away from the Miso Eggplant, I will most likely try the Caesar options as I love a good Caesar. As far as the Bills Bowl and Sandwich go, I’m just not an artichoke person.
In addition to a full coffee bar they also offer a selection of drinks on tap. I generally get a Cortado when available, but I keep getting their Pistachio Milk Matcha. Nitro-loaded, the texture they get on this drink is wonderful. Something like a milkshake but without the heaviness. I topped mine with a maple and cardamom foam, highly recommended.
Head down to Louisiana Street and enjoy the smartest cafe in Buffalo. Proprietors Cait Lanigan and Yaz Bitouche have created something special – even the packaging is top-notch and sustainable – and worthy of your patronage. Or, to hear Sevens say it, You belong here.
225 Louisiana Street, sevensbuffalo.com, Instagram: @sevensbuffalo
Hours: 7 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday, 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday.
Prices: drinks $3.5-7; bowls $13.5-15; sandwiches $12.5-15.5
Parking: Street
Wheelchair Access: Via O’Connell Street. Head to the door and from the directory select “Sevens Cafe” and they will unlock it remotely for you.
Gluten-free: Some pastries and bread.
Vegan: Yes, everything.
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