SUNDAY NEWS: At Larkinville’s Artigiana, provolone cream and tomato danish are just the beginning

Savory danish in tomato and provolone cream, and French onion, at Artigiana

Shannon Wilson was a Wegman’s chef for a decade before teaching herself to bake.

Now her skills are drawing morning crowds at Artigiana, 935 Seneca St., on the eastern side of Larkinville. Savory danishes, croissants, rustic loaves of bread, and sandwiches of Italian meats and cheeses on fresh focaccia are some of the main draws.

Most Artigiana loaves aren’t branded, but if you want to make a statement, ask the baker.

If you want the best Artigiana has to offer, you have to get there early. By 10 a.m., many of the trays in the case are empty. Customers fill the tables, or climb the stairs to the dining loft overlooking the bakery’s main floor.

View from upstairs dining loft at Artigiana

Wilson had plenty of professional experience cooking, but baking takes another range of skills. Viennoiserie, the school of many-layered treats like croissants and danishes, is doctorate-level baking. But Wilson was determined to climb that mountain, and she did.

If you want the best Artigiana has to offer, you best get there before 10 a.m.

“If you would have told me a couple years ago, ‘You’re gonna make a croissant,’ I would be like, ‘What?’ ” Wilson said. Now she’s teaching others at Artigiana the way of the sheeter, used to process layers of thin dough.

She’s also following her own path in choosing items to offer. “Our number one item right now is that provolone cream and tomato danish, more savory types of pastry,” said Wilson. “We did one with coppa and Asiago with sesame seeds on the outside.”

Artigiana’s Nona pizza has been a bestseller, too, sold by the slice from the Artigiana case. “I’m not doing cup-and-char pepperoni and sauce,” said Wilson. “Not that they’re not good, because I do love those things, trust me. I just wanted to stay in my own lane and adhere to our ingredients. So if we have a chunk of prosciutto parma or excess soppressata, some provolone cream, we can go in different directions and be creative with that.”

Artigiana 

935 Seneca St., Buffalo NY, artigiana716.com

Hours: 7:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday, 7:30 a.m.-noon Sunday. Closed Monday, Tuesday.

Amherst’s Dulce Hogar Bakery offers the Colombian meat feast called bandeja paisa.

REVIEW: Colombian specialties like the meat celebration known as bandeja paisa have arrived in Amherst, with Dulce Hogar Bakery opening its second location at Niagara Falls Boulevard at Sheridan Drive, formerly El Palenque. Fluffy arepa corncakes, crispy pork belly, empanadas with chewy corn shells, and sweet treats like guava and cheese pastelillos are just the beginning. (Coming Thursday, for patrons.) 

GET THE GUIDE: The first Four Bites book is on sale now. Order here to have the 195-restaurant volume delivered before Christmas.

Four BitesWhere to Eat in Buffalo 2026 spotlights 195 locally-owned restaurants, bakeries, and food stores that make Buffalo one of the best eating cities, dollar for dollar, in America. 

Taverns and diners for everyday eating, but also restaurants to trust with your big night out. From bakeries to pasta makers to the astounding international diversity of Buffalo’s current menu, you’ll find it here.

It’s the distilled result of Galarneau’s 15 years on the food beat, built on the help of about 100 tastespotters. They dime out new restaurants with a quickness, because they know how Four Bites works: Tipsters get fed, so we can all find what makes Buffalo so damn tasty.

$13.99, 178 pages, 6×4 perfect bound softcover. ISBN: 978-1-970895-00-1. 

Here’s where you can find me signing books:

Dec. 7, 11 a.m.-1 p.m., Read It & Eat Bookshop, 2929 Main St.

Dec. 12, 5 p.m.-6 p.m., Talking Leaves, 951 Elmwood Ave.

Dec. 18, 6 p.m.-8 p.m. Lock City Books, 8 Market St., Lockport, with food by Jessica Dittly. 

If you’re interested in having me show up, talk food, and sign books, please email andrew@fourbites.net

Chicken shawarma plate at Falafel Bar

ASK THE CRITIC

Q: Are there any Lebanese restaurants around? I’m looking for manakish or kofta or really really good shawarma. 

A: Three part answer: my favorite shawarma is at Falafel Bar. Second best: Shawarma House, Welland, Ont. For manakish I’d hit the new location of Cheezatar in Kenmore. Kofta, Almaza Grill on Transit, or Falafel Bar, or Shawarma House.

More reading from Michael Chelus of Nittany Epicurean:

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