SUNDAY NEWS: Buffalo gets love letter to Indonesian cuisine for Valentine's Day

*Indonesian tumpeng-style meal Feb. 14 at Nusantara Arts.*

In a city with no Indonesian restaurants, a dedicated group of musicians offer your best chance to explore this beguilingly complex cuisine in Buffalo. Experience a meal presented in traditional Indonesian style to gamelan music on Valentine’s Day, or opt for takeout the day before.

Either way, we have music to thank. Nusantara Arts, 490 Lafayette Ave., is an Indonesian-centered arts nonprofit that grew out of the Buffalo Gamelan Club. Gamelan is traditional Indonesian ensemble music, with groups of players using tuned gongs, cymbals, and other percussion instruments. (Check out a performance here.)

On Feb. 14, starting at 6:30 p.m., Nusantra Arts invites Buffalo to a dinner including seven Indonesian dishes, and a gamelan performance featuring visiting guest artist-in-residence Heri Purwanto. At only $50 per person, expect the few remaining tickets to get snapped up quickly. Conduct yourselves accordingly.

Fortunately, Nusantara also offers takeout meal boxes available for pickup on Friday Feb. 13, the day before the main event.

At the Valentine’s Day dinner, guests will be served tumpeng style, with a ziggurat of golden rice surrounded by other dishes. Here’s Nusantara Arts’ menu, with descriptions.

*Rendang sapi, beef braised in coconut milk and spices.*

Nasi Kuning is fragrant turmeric coconut rice, warm and savory with subtle spices, served as the golden centerpiece of the meal.

Ayam Bakar is Indonesian grilled chicken, marinated in sweet soy, garlic, and warm Indonesian spices: smoky, sticky, and savory.

Rendang Sapi is fork-tender beef slow-braised for five hours in coconut milk, chilies, and many fragrant spices until rich, dark, and caramelized.

Tahu Telur Belado is crispy tofu and egg topped with a belado chili sauce: sweet heat, tangy bite, and total comfort.

*Tumpeng-style Indonesian feast Feb. 14.*

Gado-Gado is a mixture of blanched vegetables, tofu, and egg draped in creamy peanut sauce, finished with a bright squeeze of lime and the crunch of krupuk prawn crackers.

Oseng-oseng Buncis is crisp-tender green beans and golden tempeh tossed with garlic, chilies, and sweet soy until glossy, savory, and wildly addictive.

Sambal is a bold, spicy Indonesian chili sauce served on the side so you can add as much fiery kick as you dare.

Bubur Ketan Hitam is dessert, sticky black rice pudding topped with coconut cream.

Takeout orders are $25, for a sampling of dishes, not the entire menu. They’ll include jasmine rice, Rendang Sapi, Tahu Telur Belado, Oseng-oseng Buncis, and sambal. Please note that takeout orders must be made by Feb. 11. Order takeout boxes here.

REVIEW: For decades, Kuni’s has offered the most authentic Japanese sushi in Buffalo. In April, Hiroki Fukushima, who hails from Kagoshima, Kyushu, took command of the kitchen, and Kuni’s got even better at what it does best. If your favorite sushi arrives loaded with barbecue sauce and bacon bits, Kuni’s might not be your cup of tea. If you want Japanese style sushi, arrive early, and put your name in with a prayer, because Kuni’s still doesn’t need to take reservations. (Later this week, for patrons.)

TORTUGA IN SANBORN: Tortuga’s Kenmore restaurant is closed for now, but its Central-American-inspired cuisine is flowing from its original Sanborn location.

Aztec fries, Chivito sandwiches, and the rest of Tortuga’s menu is available at 5835 Buffalo St., Sanborn. Hours: 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday.

CASA AZUL VALENTINE: If Indonesian or gamelan isn’t your thing, consider Casa Azul’s cozy little pre-Valentine’s Day tasting menu event on Feb. 12, four courses and dessert with cocktail pairings. It’s $90 plus tax and tip, if you can get a reservation.

Here’s the dishes, with cocktail pairings in parentheses.

Salmon Crudo, pomelo, beets, jalapeno, citrus caper vinaigrette. (‘Paloma’ – tequila, grapefruit caviar, lime)

Chicken Liver Taquito, smoked cherry, pistachio. (‘Blood Sand’ – mezcal, orange, cherry, clarified)

Carnitas ‘Steak’, cauliflower & fennel soubise, winter citrus salad. (‘Sazerac’ – pork washed mezcal, fennel syrup, orange bitters)

Lobster Chochoyotes, spicy seafood beurre blanc. (‘Airmail’- herb infused tequila, honey, lime, sparkling wine)

Tres Leche Capirotada, caramelized white chocolate. (‘Carilljo’ – mezcal, cognac, coffee, liquor 43)

ASK THE CRITIC

Q: Got a friend visiting for lunch at 1. Suggestions for best Niagara Falls lunch place? I’m vegetarian nowadays, but guest is not, so carnivorous is fine as long as I can likely get something.

Reg G., Niagara Falls

A: My first recommendation is Simply Soul, 829 Main St., Niagara Falls. Opens at 1. Vegetarians can feast on the side dishes. Your friend will have his pick of terrific things. Me, I’d go for the Rasta Pasta with oxtails.

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