Cheesemongers Julian Dell’Oso and Clayton Edison have added another civilized amenity to Elmwood Village, next door to their Amabel Provisions cheese-charcuterie-gift shop. Concord is a wine bar, built to lure those who would like a drink and civilized nibbles, not the whole appetizer-entree-dessert shebang.

The other lure is that you can actually hear what people are saying on the other side of the table. The wine-by-the-glass list is carefully curated, cheeky, full of your oranges, reds, and whites. But the quiet is golden.

Edible offerings start with from Amabel stock, with cheese plates and accoutrements drawn from their stores. If it seems declasse to order a can of food in a restaurant, the sort of tins they’ll open for you might turn you around on canned seafood’s cachet. Give that Tenorio tuna filet in escabeche ($15) a squeeze of lemon. When you’re done fishing out the last shreds of scrumptious seafood, you may be tempted to drink the juice.

Others are original creations.

Cured pork tartare ($15), made from Amabel charcuterie, isn’t raw. In fact, it reminded me of a particularly fine rendition of the mixed deli ends salad once sold in the case at the Corfu Super Duper. The deli ladies just shoveled it into plastic containers, though, instead of crowning it with an egg yolk.

Fresh seafood arrives as chilled poached shimp nestled into garlicky toum and verdant green goddess dressing ($17).

Fennel salad ($15) with apples, shaved radishes, and pomegranate arils also brings pistachios for toasty crunch. Gently roasted delicata squash slices ($15) dressed in cranberry mostarda on greens would make a lovely light vegetable dinner, actually. Or butter beans ($12), with black pepper, sorrel, and pecorino romano.

A ham bun with pickled peppers and onion confit ($15) and a margherita pinsa ($14) drawing on Amabel’s fresh mozzarella are more amiable not-too-simple snacks. 

If you don’t want to bet on a soup-to-nuts meal, stop by your neighborhood cheesemonger for an amiable glass with a bite.

Concord, 1008 Elmwood Ave., concordbuffalo.com, 716-382-5650

Hours:  5 p.m.-9 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday, 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Friday, Saturday, 5 p.m.-8 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday, Tuesday.

REVIEW: If you’re looking for a breakfast and lunch spot that reminds you of ye olde American diners, I’d suggest checking out The Country Hen, a new family restaurant in the former Como space by Niagara Falls International Airport. Housemade bread, properly browned corned beef hash, and griddled cinnamon rolls are three of the reasons that I returned for a review after being alerted to the new restaurant’s old-fashioned qualities by a scout. (For patrons, later this week.)

LIMBURGER-PALOOZA AT UACC

People who desperately love stinky cheese eventually come to realize that it’s something of a niche hobby. If you’ve been banned from pursuing the subject of your limburger leanings at home, there’s a place you can go.

March 1 is Limburgerpalooza at the Ukrainian-American Civic Center, 205 Military Road. The  membership club opens its doors and bar for events like its annual celebration of the cheese that needs its own refrigerator.

It’s not a stuffy place. On Friday I tucked into an order of Pani’s pierogi ($15, with salad) and took in the scene as a Mrs. Roper night unfolded with Three’s Company on the flatscreen behind the bar.

On March 1, expect Limburgerpalooza to include limburger-powered pizza, mac and cheese, stuffed mushrooms, and salad, and extra-aged limburger. Plus a galaxy of sausages, pickles, kapusta, and bacon-and-onion soup. Doors open 11 a.m., food served by 2 p.m., $15 at the door.

ASK THE CRITIC: 

Q: Who’s got the best pecan pie in Buffalo?

– AJ, via email

A: The best pecan pie that I’ve had a chance to meet is at Southern Junction, the award-winning Indian-ish BBQ place at 367 Connecticut St. Lydia Herr’s pecan pie is saucy with Irish whiskey and orange zest grace notes, in a buttery, let-no-crumb-escape crust. Small but mighty, $9 last I checked.

More reading from Michael Chelus of Nittany Epicurean:

• Andrew told us how Buffalonians can experience a meal presented in traditional Indonesian style on Valentine’s Day created by Nusantara Arts [Four Bites]
• Andrew also gave us 50 great restaurants in Buffalo, a city of immigrants incluing Family Thai, Alibaba Kebab, China Taste, Dulce Hogar Bakery and more [Four Bites]
• Brett told us that the Tex-Mex tradition is alive and well at Señor Chubby’s in Kenmore [Step Out Buffalo]
• Resurgence Brewing is holding Après Ski Fest on 2/7 [Buffalo Beer League]
• Brian’s Buffalo Beer Buzz told us about the return of the Cabin Fever Beer & Wine Festival to Buffalo Ski Center on 4/25, the 4 the Ward collaboration and more [Step Out Buffalo]
• Francesca wrote about Le Social Club at Marble + Rye [Buffalo News]
• The delicious barbecue of Fat Bob’s is now available at 42N at the Flats [Buffalo Rising]
• Jamie wrote about the scratch-made sourdough and other goodies you can find at Mojo Market [Open till Four]
• Alan wrote about Chef Darian Bryan as he perpares to compete on “Next Level Chef” [Buffalo News]
• Many local restaurants, cafes and shops closed to protest ICE [Buffalo News]
• Brett also wrote about Labryinth Workshop [Step Out Buffalo]

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