SUNDAY NEWS: Fine dining to BBQ: Buffalo’s amazing brunches

Mira breakfast sandwich (PHOTO: Mira)

Now that the ice dams have broken off rooflines, it’s time to start getting reacquainted with other human beings in an atmosphere conducive to pausing and reflecting on life. 

By which I mean brunch.

If you haven’t gotten a dose of brunch’s healing powers lately, consider these new and new-ish arrivals on the Buffalo brunch scene.

Mira, the fine new restaurant from the Grange Community Kitchen people, brings the Mediterranean closer to Elmwood Avenue. Saturday morning brunch has its own menu, featuring an egg sandwich on house-baked ciabatta with Cooper Sharp cheese and green chile, hashbrowns with dill sour cream, and hummus with scarlet runner beans, za’atar, and fresh-baked flatbread.

Mira

1081 Elmwood Ave., Buffalo NY, mirabuffalo.com, 716-783-7000

Hours: 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday, 9 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 9 a.m.-2:30 p.m. brunch, 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday, Monday.

Cinnamon roll, cardamom whipped cream and pistachios, Southern Junction

Breakfast taco platters, giant cinnamon rolls, brisket breakfast sandwiches, and the gosh-darndest sausage gravy biscuit headline the brunch menu at Southern Junction. You can make your own adventure in tacoland, and quaff an eye-opener from the full bar, with Shiner Bock on draft to tamp down the smoke.

Southern Junction

365 Connecticut Ave., Buffalo NY,  southernjunction716.com

Hours: 4 p.m.-9 p.m. Monday, Thursday-Saturday, 10 a.m. -3 p.m. Sunday. Closed Tuesday, Wednesday.

French-style omelet with chicken cheese gravy and salad, from 2021 Waxlight brunch menu

Waxlight brings back its much-missed brunch with an every-other-month Sunday brunch starting Feb. 22. That will be “an American South, low country-style lunchy brunch, featuring dishes like Cajun shellfish, fried chicken with biscuits and gravy, and a classic southern dessert, all prepared in the Waxlight way. A champagne pairing is available as an add-on during booking, and a la carte beverages will also be offered.”

Waxlight Bar a Vin

27 Chandler St., Buffalo NY, waxlightbaravin.com

Hours: 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday, 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday, Saturday. Closed Sunday-Tuesday.

Real chicken-fried steak and green chile cheese grits at Southern Belle Diner.

Real chicken fried steak, biscuits and gravy, queso-napped huevos rancheros, and green chile cheese grits. Served daily, including Saturdays and Sundays. 

Southern Belle Diner

3575 Walden Ave., Lancaster NY, southernbellediner.com, 716-393-3033

Hours: 7 a.m.-3 p.m. daily

Who saw the smoked brisket Benedict coming? Smoked breakfast sandwiches, French toast with barbecue, Monte Cristos, breakfast burritos — and a full bar. Brunch is Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Regular menu starts at 11:30 a.m. both days. 

BBQ Benedict at Yankee BBQ

Yankee BBQ

4572 Clark St., Hamburg NY, yankeebbq716.com, 716-768-4991

Hours: noon-10:30 p.m. Wednesday-Friday, 10 a.m.-11 p.m. Saturday, 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Sunday.

REVIEW: Brothers Frank and Paul Tripi of Frank Gourmet Hot Dogs are artists at the top of their form, their mediums burgers, peerless double-cooked fries, and dogs, with occasional side-quests into smoked pastrami and Frisbee-sized Midwestern-style pork tenderloin sandwiches. As they prepare to open a second location, it’s worth explaining why so many Western New Yorkers turn to findfranknow.com for their fix of American classics at their peak. (For patrons, later this week.)

Pattaya Street Food owners Elizabeth Sher and husband Soe Win have expanded their kitchen and their menu inside International House, 617 Main St., across the tracks from Shea’s Performing Arts Center.

Soe’s Kitchen, in the space formerly occupied by Nile River, extends the Pattaya Street Food menu to Thai stir-fries like pad prik gaeng and pad ga pow, fried ramen, tom yum fried rice, and crispy pork belly stir-fried with garlic, oyster sauce, and Chinese broccoli ($14.99-$16.99).

Pattaya Street Food and Soe’s Kitchen are open 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. Closed Sunday, Monday.

Crispy pork belly in oyster sauce, Pattaya Street Food/Soe’s Kitchen

DOVE WINE DINNERS: Italian-American standout The Dove offers “A Taste of Southern Italy” wine dinner on Feb. 26 and March 5.

At 3002 Abbott Road, Orchard Park, cocktails will start at 6 p.m., with dinner at 6:30 p.m. Here’s the menu, with pairings.

Minestrone Soup with white beans, Italian sausage, spinach: Lagovuveri Frappato

Cheesy arancini: Lagovuveri Grillo

Braciole with pappardelle noodles: Podere don Cataldo Negroamaro

Sicilian cannolis with crushed pistachios: Bariano Prosecco Rose

Seats are $90, which includes tax and tip. Without wine, it’s $65. 

Call 716-823-6680 for reservations, secured by a credit card deposit. Cancellations after Monday preceding the event will be charged $60.

Jay’s Artisan’s world-class Neapolitan pies are just one of Buffalo’s pizza pleasures.

ASK THE CRITIC

Q: What’s your favorite pizza place in Buffalo?

  • Sam C., via email

A: For which style? Buffalo is such a pizza town that your favorite pie could come from one of five different schools of pizza thought.

Imperial cheese and pepperoni

Buffalo: thick crust, mucho cheese, baked in oiled pan, these slices don’t fold. Bocce on Bailey, Lovejoy Pizza, Imperial Pizza, Picasso’s.

Detroit-style Bolognese, Marble + Rye

Detroit: cooked in a rectangular pan overflowing with cheese so it’s surrounded with crisp cheese frico. Marble + Rye, Bflo Pizza Bistro, Connor’s, Jay’s Artisan Pizza, Buffalo Deep Dish.

White pizza, Extra Extra Pizza

NYC: Thin crust, deck baked, judicious application of cheese, foldable slices. Extra Extra Pizza, Olisi’s, Hydraulic Hearth.

‘Nduja pie, Jay’s Artisan Pizza

Neapolitan: Thin crust, deck-baked in 800-degree oven in two minutes, producing characteristic leopard-spotted corniciones and floppy two-hander slices. Jay’s Artisan Pizza, Forno Napoli, Grange Community Kitchen, West Rose.

Calabrian Crunch pie, Pizzeria Florian

Pizzeria Florian Style: Jay Langfelder, who founded Jay’s, was aiming for a pie between Naples and New York styles when he and partner Amanda opened Pizzeria Florian. They nailed it, meaning that amid a forest of pies, Pizzeria Florian’s crispy-crusted one-hander slices are their own species.

More reading from Michael Chelus of Nittany Epicurean:

#30#

This Post Has One Comment

Leave a Reply