SUNDAY NEWS: International bakeries broaden Buffalo’s daily bread choices

Baklava, Fresh Arabic Sweets

How much of the bread you eat is the same stuff, week after week, the convenient, not-so-bad loaf of adequacy? 

It’s right there at the supermarket, after all. What sort of bread could even convince you a second stop was worthwhile?

How far off the beaten path would you go for something different? Would you travel to the wilds of Amherst, downtown Buffalo, or even North Tonawanda?

While you chew on those questions, here’s some international bakers working hard to be part of our daily bread.

Sahar Bakery

2784 Sheridan Drive, Tonawanda NY, 716-314-0116

Hours: 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Low-profile Afghan bakery offers barbari, the tray-sized finger-dimpled loaves also known as Persian flatbread, in white and whole wheat, $5 for two loaves the size of skateboard decks. Persian and Middle Eastern groceries, like black limes and jameed, dried fermented sheep’s milk yogurt.

Fresh Arabic Sweets

560 Amherst St., Buffalo NY, 716-768-3826

Hours: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. daily.

Ten kinds of buttery baklava land in the display case before noon most days. By late afternoon the kataifi, salty cheese sandwiched between layers of shredded phyllo, baked until golden and drenched in syrup, is usually gone. But the pistachio-centered art of Syrian baker Mohammed Altaleh remains a complete steal, $11.99 a pound last we checked.

Buffalo Fresh

284 Ontario St., Buffalo NY, buffalofreshmarkets.com, 716-582-0510

Hours: 9 a.m.-8 p.m. daily.

Bakery in the back of international grocery produces Iraqi samoon loaves and cheese-topped manakeesh most mornings, in addition to other types of bread offered. Lunch choices include steamtable fish, meat, and rice dishes. In between is a world of Arab and Persian groceries, well-stocked freezers, and a halal meat counter.

Suenos de Azucar Bakery

56 Niagara St., Buffalo NY, 716-533-8470

Hours: 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Friday. Closed Saturday, Sunday.

Puerto Rican panaderia two blocks from Buffalo City Hall wows with guava pastelillos, mega queso rolls, and cream horns on the sweet side. Then there’s savory snacks like softball-sized deep-fried papas rellenos and beef-and-plantain fried turnovers. Sandwiches like the Cubano and tripleta are big enough for a day’s calories, stuffed with meat and salad fixings before being anointed with garlic oil.

Anastasia’s Artisan Bread Bakery

236 Zimmerman St., North Tonawanda NY, anastasiasbread.com, 716-906-4135

Hours: 8 a.m.-1 p.m. Wednesday-Monday. Closed Tuesday.

Dark rye beloved by northern Europeans, cardamom knots, baguettes, financiers, and much more comes out fresh every morning in North Tonawanda. A couple of Russian engineers with a home-based baking enterprise went brick-and-mortar in November. Now there’s seemingly specials every week, like pistachio matcha danish and Anastasia’s version of Black Forest Cake.

That Greek Guy Bakery

999 Broadway, Buffalo NY, greekguybakery.com, 716-200-9825

Hours: 11 a.m.-1 p.m. Tuesday-Friday, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday, Monday.

Michael Giokas and his son Alex offer pocket pita bread that reminds you of the good old days. Spanakopita (spinach pie), baklava, and more, Personally, I dig the bougatsa,  custard baked inside golden-brown folded phyllo dusted with powdered sugar, and maybe even cinnamon. That Greek Guy Bakery pita is delivered to both Lexington Co-ops weekly.

La Flor Bakery

544 Niagara St., Buffalo NY, laflorbuffalo.com, 716-812-0187

Hours: 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 7 a.m.-6 p.m. Sunday.

Puerto Rican steamtable specials like smothered pork chops and pernil with rice and pigeon peas alongside a full bakery case of boricua sweets like tres leches cake and guava turnovers dusted with powdered sugar.

Dulce Hogar Bakery

448 Oliver St., North Tonawanda, dulcehogarbakeryny.com, 716-525-1010

Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. Closed Monday.

951 Niagara Falls Blvd., Amherst, dulcehogarbakeryny.com, 716-529-9225

Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday. Closed Monday.

Try Colombian dishes like bandeja paisa, a carnivore Disneyland: fried pork belly, Colombian sausage, morcilla blood sausage, and steak, plus plantains, eggs, beans, and rice. Seafood stews, empanadas, and an entire lineup of baked sweets like caramel-cheese buns await.

Clarified butter oozing out of kitfo into injera, Horn of Africa

REVIEW: Hidden in plain sight on Hertel Avenue, Horn of Africa opened last September. I’m sure I drove by it 50 times without knowing that the plain facade concealed opportunities for remarkably transporting culinary escapades. Tsegarada Abera and husband Samuel Awalom offer a quiet space to relax and enjoy Eritrean and Ethiopian dishes like kitfo, minced beef tartare drenched with spiced clarified butter, zelzel-style beef tibs in red wine butter sauce, and quanta firfur, sauteed dried beef. (For patrons, later this week.)

WAFFLES BACK AT FITZ: Fitz Books, 1462 Main St., has its liege waffles back at last.

Liege waffles? Instead of pouring batter into a waffle iron, use cookie dough sprinkled with sugar crystals, and you’ll end up with something reminiscent of a liege waffle.

Original ($3.50), cinnamon of chocolate ($4.50) and gluten free vegan ($4.50) are waffle choices. Innovations include a grilled cheese waffle and a chive cream cheese with capers and pickled red onions, salmon optional.

Fitz Books is open noon-6 p.m. daily.

Beef cheek ramen, Yankee BBQ

ASK THE CRITIC

Q: Just re-watched the movie Tampopo, now I’m dying for ramen. Could you recommend some ramen joints? We’re in Cattaraugus County. Cheers, Toro B.

A: Great news. Yankee BBQ in Hamburg does ramen nights, and the next one is April 21. 

The ramen is really, really good. You have to make a reservation. Here’s the link

Beef rib, Yankee BBQ

As fate would have it, Yankee BBQ is the answer to another internet craving. When a barbecue fan asked for smoked beef ribs, instead of the usual pork spare ribs, I asked owner Brian Nagy if the “brontosaurus ribs” might make a comeback.

Yes, one night only: Saturday March 14, $25 per rib. 

More reading from Michael Chelus of Nittany Epicurean:

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