REVIEW: At Lou Lou, enjoying fresh bread and expert Lebanese grilling
Fresh bread arriving at my table, still warm from the hearth, always makes me feel like some lowkey royalty. No matter where I am eating, no matter what else arrives…
REVIEW: At Lutong Pinoy, cross the border to explore Filipino home cooking
Peanut kare-kare with crispy pork belly, at Lutong Pinoy If you live in Buffalo and love to explore the world’s cuisines, a NEXUS subscription does wonders for your reach. There’s…
REVIEW: At Cipollina, housemade burrata and more bespoke Italian in Akron
Lasagna, pasta alla norma, chicken sorrentino, clockwise from left, at Cipollina. How many Western New York restaurant chefs do you know of making their own burrata for service? Massaging mozzarella…
REVIEW: At Almandi, appreciating Yemeni food as American as apple pie
Lamb mandi on rice, Almandi We were dining at Almandi, six blocks west of the Broadway Market, while my friend Faress told his family’s story of how they became American.…
REVIEW: At Bistro Avera, a fine dining artist enters his go-for-baroque era
Conchigle pasta with lamb bolognese, Bistro Avera In February, I got the chance to play art critic at the Buffalo AKG Art Museum. The exhibit “Dine In” explores the ultimate…
REVIEW: At Hānai Hawaiian BBQ, real plate lunch surfaces far from beach
Grilled beef ribs, Hanai Hawaiian BBQ If you’ve never heard of “Hawaiian plate lunch,” the menu at Hānai Hawaiian BBQ might seem somewhat discombobulated. Beef ribs cut thin, marinated in…
REVIEW: At Dapper Goose, celebrating where the farm-to-table movement yet persists
As restaurant concepts go, “farm-to-table” has faded like the “CHEW MAIL POUCH TOBACCO” slogans painted on barns in another century. At its Buffalo-area peak a decade ago, every other new…
REVIEW: At Horn of Africa, breathtaking Eritrean and Ethiopian music for your mouth
Ethiopian genius on injera at Horn of Africa If it wasn’t for tastespotter Scott Field, who knows how long it would have taken me to discover Horn of Africa. The…
REVIEW: At Café Bar Moriarty, thrilling to the butcher-restaurant making out-of-towners jealous
Boeuf on Weck, Café Bar Moriarty When a friend coming in from out of town tells me they can only meet for lunch, I ask if Wednesday, Thursday, or Friday…
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REVIEW: At Swan Street Diner, an idealized diner gem in Larkinville
Bruleed grapefruit at Swan Street Diner (Photo: Mickey Harmon) Tucked into the Larkinville neighborhood of former industrial buildings east of downtown, Swan Street Diner offers Buffalo breakfast and lunch seekers…
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